Selection Massale Burgundy Offering 2010
Céline et Laurent Tripoz, Domaine Tripoz, Burgundy France
Please note the shipping/pickup update at the end of this email.
"I'ts a shame that the work ethic that goes into each cuvée that [Céline and Laurent] make isn't shared by many others with great terroirs"
-Frank Sauvey, Le Rouge et Le Blanc #84
In the vineyards of Céline and Laurent Tripoz above Loché
Pouilly-Loché is an appellation that is unlikely to be on the radar of many people, but Guilhaume and I couldn't be more excited the wines. Wedged between the much larger Pouilly-Fuisse and slightly larger Pouilly-Vinzelles appellations Loché, named for the village that sits surrounded by the vineyards, is so unknown that appellation rules allow for winemakers in the area (almost all of them of whom belong either to the local co-op or sell their fruit to one of the large negoçiant houses) to bottle their wine under the better known (but still obscure) Pouilly-Vinzelles appellation.
So, in 1986, Céline and Laurent Tripoz had most everything stacked against them starting out. With only 1.5 hectares to their name right outside the village (an inheritance from Céline's mother) and no experience to speak of (Laurent had been a carpenter) they began to farm Chardonnay. At first they sold into the co-op, as almost everyone in the area did, but in 1990 they split after several years of being disappointed with the final result, and with a few more hectares they began to make their own wine. They slowly improved quality over the next 10 years learning what they could from experience and acquiring more land scattered around Loché. In 2000 they started making the conversion to organics and biodynamics. For Céline and Laurent the expensive decision for the small winery which was already struggling was surprisingly easy. They started investigating the quality of the soils in their vineyards that looked like they had been napalmed, and knew that soon their own children would be working alongside them in the vineyards and were horrified. They turned to Pierre Masson, a noted biodynamic consultant in France to convert all their vineyards. This made them pariahs in the village somewhat, first for rejecting the cooperative, and then for insisting on biodynamics in their vineyards. It also cost them financially and the winery went through some lean years, but they stuck to what they thought was best for the wines and the soil, and now they are certified by both Ecocert and Demeter (the European organic and biodynamic certification boards, respectively). And, after all this, the work began to pay off in spades.
The Chardonnay's are a mixture of old and young vines in vineyards composed of clay and limestone directly around he village of Loché, including the Tripoz's small holding of Les Murs, considered the best site in the area (they have provided us with a map of the vineyards HERE). The wine is all hand harvested and fermented in a mixture of old wood and stainless steel using indigenous yeast. These are stunning examples of what can be done in this area. Céline and Laurent are beginning to get quite a lot of press in France (see the above from Le Rouge et Le Blanc) along with placement in Parisian shops so we don't expect our allocation to stay this large for long.
2008 Domaine Tripoz Pouilly-Loché "Reserve" 750ml: $23.22
Made from100% Chardonnay selected from the Tripoz's best vineyards, primarily their part of Les Murs (considered the best in Pouilly-Loché) on the hill just west of Loché. Made only in years that are noteworthy, this is what I consider classic Mâcon Chardonnay, with it's meyer-lemon minerality, beeswax and white flower nose. Elevage in old wood with a tiny percentage of newer wood blended in. This is fantastic wine from young, serious minded vignerons making special wine in an appellation way outside the known. Like David Dupasquier's gamay from a few weeks ago this is one of the best wines for the price we're offering this year. It will benefit from another 3-5 years in your cellar at least. There are only 10 cases of this wine coming stateside into us so we may have to allocate.
2009 Domaine Tripoz Macon-Loché 750ml: $18.00
100% Chardonnay from Tripoz's young vines scattered throughout Loché. Elevage in 100% stainless steel to preserve as much minerality and acidity as possible in the wine. This is definitely a sharper, more focused wine than the Reserve and more immediately drinkable (although a few years won't hurt a bit). This is a wine that is neither too simple nor-overworked. It is a brilliant expression of where it came from and who made it. When I asked Guilhaume for his opinion on the wine he said, and I quote "when we drank that wine we didn't need to go further, we knew we would work with them." I'll second that.
To place an order simply reply to this email or email quantities you wish to order, or if you have any questions regarding the wines or shipping/pickup: firstname.lastname@example.org
This wine is set to arrive directly from Domaine Tripoz in April and will ship in the spring weather permitting, or in the fall.
We also have a archive of our past orders in case anyone missed anything since the list is growing so fast. It is located here: http://selectionmassale.com/blog/
Shipping/Pickup Update: Our first wines will begin arriving in our warehouse March 28th and will continue to arrive throughout April. We will ship as soon as you have a full case unless you tell us otherwise, in which case we will ship as soon as your wine arrives, or if you are local you can pickup anytime after the wine arrives (please email us beforehand). I will begin sending people invoices next week and you can tell me then when we should ship. We will try our hardest to avoid any inclement weather that will damage your wines in transit. If you want to us hold your wine for pickup, please let me know. You must be completely paid up for local pickup. I will provide more details for loacal pickup as soon as the wine arrives. We cannot sell wine onsite.